The Bottom Line
(This review contains a correction from our original review. When we received the jig for our initial review, we were mistakenly shipped an incorrect 5/8" collar, which didn't fit the jig properly. The following review has been modified to reflect our results with the correct collar.)
The MLCS #8712 Pins & Tails Through Dovetail Template is designed to cut through dovetails only. (For Half Blind dovetails, try the MLCS Half Blind Dovetail Jig.)
While the results weren't as precise as those from more professional-level jigs, for the hobbyist woodworker, this inexpensive dovetail system may be a perfect choice.
The MLCS #8712 Pins & Tails Through Dovetail Template is designed to cut through dovetails only. (For Half Blind dovetails, try the MLCS Half Blind Dovetail Jig.)
While the results weren't as precise as those from more professional-level jigs, for the hobbyist woodworker, this inexpensive dovetail system may be a perfect choice.
Pros
- Inexpensive template promises dovetails at a fraction of other tools' prices
- Very simple to use. Once tool is set up, no adjustments should be necessary
Cons
- Ideal setup requires a 2-7/8" thick block of stock
- Not as precise as professional jigs, but produces very passable through dovetails
Description
- Requires a 5/8" collar on router to guide cutting path, which is available from MLCS when you order your jig.
- Recommended setup requires a 2-7/8" thick piece of stock to be attached to the jig for a backer.
- Much less expensive than competing models, but with some practice we were able to get passable results.
- This jig should really appeal to hobbyist woodworkers, as it produces through dovetails without a huge investment.
Guide Review - Review of MLCS Pins & Tails Through Dovetail Template
This dovetail template is a very simple woodworking tool, where the user attaches a single block of 2-7/8" thick stock to the center of the template. Pins are cut on one side of the template and tails on the other. Once the template is set up properly, future adjustments shouldn't be necessary.
The woodworker clamps the stock to be cut into their wood vise and then clamps the tail finger side of the jig assembly to the board to be cut. An alignment mark is used to set the position of the template, with a pencil line denoting the corresponding board's thickness onto the stock.
To cut tails, the user installs a 3/4" 14-degree dovetail bit and a 5/8" collar to the router, both of which are included with the template kit. The depth of cut of the bit is determined by placing the router on top of the jig and adjusting the bit depth to the pencil line.
The woodworker proceeds to cut the tails by guiding the collar between the fingers to route out the dovetails. With the proper collar, the router slides smoothly in-between the parallel fingers of the jig to produce the tails.
Once the tails are cut, the tail board is removed and the pin board is clamped to the opposite side of the jig. A straight-cutting bit is installed, the depth of cut is adjusted and the pins are then cut out.
There are some drawbacks to this system. First, you'll need a 2 7/8" thick block of wood to use the jig properly. Second, the aluminum jig is relatively thin and had a tendency to flex when attaching to the boards to be cut. Once we noticed this and were careful to properly seat the jig along the edge of the board, we didn't have any problems.
While this is an inexpensive jig, it isn't marketed to compete with professional models. Hobbyist woodworkers should love this jig, as they won't have to spend hundreds of dollars to get passable dovetails.
The woodworker clamps the stock to be cut into their wood vise and then clamps the tail finger side of the jig assembly to the board to be cut. An alignment mark is used to set the position of the template, with a pencil line denoting the corresponding board's thickness onto the stock.
To cut tails, the user installs a 3/4" 14-degree dovetail bit and a 5/8" collar to the router, both of which are included with the template kit. The depth of cut of the bit is determined by placing the router on top of the jig and adjusting the bit depth to the pencil line.
The woodworker proceeds to cut the tails by guiding the collar between the fingers to route out the dovetails. With the proper collar, the router slides smoothly in-between the parallel fingers of the jig to produce the tails.
Once the tails are cut, the tail board is removed and the pin board is clamped to the opposite side of the jig. A straight-cutting bit is installed, the depth of cut is adjusted and the pins are then cut out.
There are some drawbacks to this system. First, you'll need a 2 7/8" thick block of wood to use the jig properly. Second, the aluminum jig is relatively thin and had a tendency to flex when attaching to the boards to be cut. Once we noticed this and were careful to properly seat the jig along the edge of the board, we didn't have any problems.
While this is an inexpensive jig, it isn't marketed to compete with professional models. Hobbyist woodworkers should love this jig, as they won't have to spend hundreds of dollars to get passable dovetails.
